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Thanks to our
listeners who suggested this as Peter's next challenge (after scuba
diving and sailing on a square rigger on the bay) Like anything
new, it is important to research the risk first. I decided to start
with what is fugu - the poisonous blowfish, a peculiar fish native
to the Pacific Ocean.
It's been called
a chubby little puff of a fish with big expressive eyes, a lovely
metallic color and enough neurotoxins in its body to kill dozens
of human predators. Follow the link
for more info
The pufferfish
boasts the ability to inflate its body and project protective spikes.
After filling its mouth with water, the fish flexes a muscle at
the base of the oral valve which then catapults forward against
the entire front of the mouth, forming a tight seal against the
back of the front teeth.
This prevents
the water from escaping while a "plunger" type of apparatus
-a mechanism driven by a highly modified gill arch called a branchiostegal
ray-mounted at the base of the throat forces the water upward where
it shoots down the fish's esophagus and into its stomach. Puffers
have stomachs and skin of unparalleled elasticity. Unimpeded by
ribs (puffers don't have them), the fish's water- (or air-) filled
stomachs are thus free to balloon, making their owners a difficult
mouthful indeed for any passing predator
It is the ultimate
drinking competition winner.
What makes
it toxic ?
Tetrodotoxin
is 10,000 times more lethal than cyanide. It is perhaps the most
potent toxin present in nature. It is present in other animals besides
pufferfish, with the blue-ringed octopus, harlequin frogs, and rough-skinned
newts.
Tetrodotoxin
affects the nervous system in such a way as to prevent the propagation
of nerve impulses. It works because nerves need both Na and K ions
to produce the electrical messages (action potentials). Ultimately,
this sends the right message to the muscle fiber.
It does not
cross the blood-brain barrier, it inhibits the ability of our nerves
to send messages to other parts of our body - not the brain
Tetrodotoxin
binds itself to the sodium ion, shutting down the entire "message-sending"
process, and the impulse never gets to its destination.
So do people
die ?
100-200 of people
become ill each year after eating "fugu", each year. Roughly
half of these intoxifications are fatal, even with immediate treatment.
Fugu deaths in Japan range from 70-100 fatalities each year, mostly
due to improper preparation methods, or because diners insist on
eating fugu organs, which are the most toxic parts of the fish and
the most difficult to cook safely.
What is poisoning
like ?
let's say your
sushi chef had a little too much sake the night before and goofed
a bit while preparing your meal of pufferfish
The first signs
that something is awry is a slight numbness in the lips and tongue
- like chilli. The numbness increases and spreads to face and throat.
The initial symptoms involuntary muscle spasms, weakness, dizziness,
and loss of speech.
Excessive salivation
and sweating follow, slowed heart rate and a drop in body temperature
are common. Soon experience respiratory distress, marked by rapid,
shallow breathing.
The secondary
stage of the poisoning involves increased paralysis. From this point
on it's pretty much downhill, with increase in paralysis, apparent
mental impairment and convulsions followed by cardiac arrhythmia.
As tetrodotoxin
doesn't cross the brain-blood barrier - brain is not directly affected
by this toxin. Fugu poisoning survivors report that they were completely
lucid during the entire event
One Japanese
consumer of fugu was left for dead while Japanese authorities waited
to transport his corpse to another district for burial. He woke
up eight days later, having been totally conscious of everything.
Another regained
consciousness at the crematorium - just as his body was being lifted
off the burial cart.
In certain regions
of Japan, the body of a person who "dies" after eating
fugu is left lying beside his own coffin for three days before being
buried - just to make sure. If the body doesn't decompose, it isn't
dead!
The toxin is
the main ingredient in zombie making practices in Haiti and West
Africa.
So
is it safe ? -Fugu is the sole delicacy which is not permitted
to be served to the Japanese emperor
The
fugu ritual
It takes about 10 years to become a full-fledged fugu chef and the
process starts with a rigorous training program
The Japanese
government has a three-part fugu exam. You have to pass
· a written test,
· a fugu species identification test, and
· a practical cooking exam in which you have to clean, detoxify
and fillet the fish in split-second time
How is it
served ?
First, the blowfish
to be eaten is shown to the diners.
The sushi chef
removes the 11 deadly parts of the fish, including the skeleton,
skin, ovaries, intestines, and liver
The fins are
then removed and fried, then served in hot sake, known as Fugu Hire-zake.
The blowfish
skin is de-spiked with pliers, and the skin is then placed in a
salad known as Yubiki, flavored with a vinegar/soy dressing called
Ponzu. The head is cut off and the chef fillets the fish for use
in sashimi and then served
Traditional
serving: thin, almost translucent slices with a sort of milky, rippled
appearance, fanned out with a curly heap of fugu skin gathered at
the base.
This presentation
is meant to resemble a chrysanthemum, the Japanese funeral flower
and symbol of death.
A couple of
poems add to the mystique
whoever I meet
popular subject
fugu accident
I cannot see
her tonight.
I have to give her up
So I will eat fugu.
Ahh...the innocent pufferfish. Bastard...
So what is it like to eat
A couple of
people who did wrote it down.
"I wish
I could say it was the best thing I'd ever had. And while it tasted
good--an impossibly delicate flavor, clean and sort of elusive,
like an ethereal calamari but soooo soft and supple, not fishy at
all--it wasn't, like, life-threateningly phenomenal.
But for sashimi
lovers, it is a compelling experience: Fugu tastes so intriguingly
different, so subtle, you forget you're eating raw seafood.
Fugu skin
tastes decidedly more oceanic, more reminiscent of saltwater, with
a tougher, chewier texture, like slippery rubber bands.
Side note:
while eating fugu, that awful Aerosmith power ballad from Armageddon
was playing on the stereo. And I refuse to die to the soundtrack
of a Jerry Bruckheimer film. No way.
So, I didn't
die. But I'm still totally fascinated. I wanted to try fugu in the
first place because, well, I wanted to see if it was worth the gamble.
It's not. "
Another person
was offered a slice with a bow while researching a story - impossible
to refuse. Unpardonable offense to refuse. Eat it or cut off my
head for shame.
"I venture
a sliver, embarrassed to realize, for the first time in my life,
that I'd sooner die than die of embarrassment. The fugu is as tasteless
as tofu. It feels like jello rind without the cheery cherry flavor.
What's all the fuss about?
But then
why do so many gourmets put their lives in the hands of sushi chefs?
The truth
is that fugu is addictive. Enough of the neurotoxin remains to produce
a mellow tingling glow, a flush and a drug rush.
You might
ask why not just leave the bloody fish in the ocean? Why go the
expense, trouble, and risk... Ah, but eating fugu is an ancient
and hallowed Japanese tradition. And it can not be explained".
I think it can
- as the introduction to a new narcotic drug - one you don't smoke,
inhale or inject, but rather one you harvest, cut out the really
bad bits and eat with a light sauce.
If instead it
came as a fine white powder
..
Remember it
was banned for a large number of years, because too many people
were dying
How does this
sound in relation to a range of drugs.
Did I try
fugu ?
· Fugu
is only eaten in winter when the toxin levels are lower.
· No
- I am happy to say the after the research came to the conclusion
that trying more drugs was not my scene, and that fugu was the opium
poppy of the sea.
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